English novelist Charles Dickens wrote the piece on Cairo, Ill., in his "American Notes for General Circulation" published in 1843. Cairo was the westernmost stop on his visit to the United States.
Dickens was thoroughly unimpressed with the entire region. Following the passage about Cairo, he wrote this about the Mississippi River:
"But what words shall describe the Mississippi, great father of rivers, who (praise be to Heaven) has no young children like him! An enormous ditch, sometimes two or three miles wide, running liquid mud, six miles an hour: its strong and frothy current choked and obstructed everywhere by huge logs and whole forest trees: now twining themselves together in great rafts, from the interstices of which a sedgy, lazy foam works up, to float upon the water's top; now rolling past like monstrous bodies, their tangled roots showing like matted hair; now glancing singly by like giant leeches; and now writhing round and round in the vortex of some small whirlpool, like wounded snakes. The banks low, the trees dwarfish, the marshes swarming with frogs, the wretched cabins few and far apart, their inmates hollow-cheeked and pale, the weather very hot, mosquitoes penetrating into every crack and crevice of the boat, mud and slime on everything: nothing pleasant in its aspect, but the harmless lightning which flickers every night upon the dark horizon."
Trivia question:
What author wrote this about Cairo?
"We judged that three nights more would fetch us to Cairo, at the bottom of Illinois, where the Ohio River comes in, and that was what we was after. We would sell the raft and get on a steamboat and go way up the Ohio amongst the free States, and then be out of trouble."
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I can't tell if Dickens is writing about the Mississippi River or the Thames. The River Thames was filthy, of course, during his day, as the many open sewers of the London he loved so dear dumped into the river. Oh well, no accounting for elitist literary folk, living or dead. At least Twain did it tongue and cheek.
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